Mar 4, 2016

1795 Coat

I have started a 1795 coat for my husband. His other coat is a thicker wool and too hot to wear in the warmer months. I have a piece of silk from Burnley and Trowbridge that I absolutely adore and am so glad to be able to use it at last.

Inspiration:
https://www.vintagetextile.com/gallery_early.htm
http://www.mintmuseum.org/?open_collection=/resources/collection-database/item/2005.25/x/

Pattern: Laughing Moon 124

Progress photos so far:

I'm very impressed with the tail - and the pleats have come out beautifully in this silk.

Feb 27, 2016

YWU 2016 - My entry

My husband teaches historic dance and needed a new outfit that was light and able to be packed down flat into a suitcase for our upcoming historic dance and costume tour to Germany in May.

Inspiration:
My inspiration picture was this portrait of Sir Walter Raleigh by William Segar and this one of Raleigh and his son.


Fabric inspiration:
I found a piece of silk blend fabric for the trunkhose and doublet from a secondhand store in Cooma and a sari online for the jerkin and trunkhose panes. These fabrics were nice and light, and silk always impresses me with its ability to flatten really easily. The sari matched the older Sir Walter Raleigh's outfit perfectly! I found a matching trim at Heritage Trading on Ebay.




 




I started out using the Tudor Tailor pattern but ended up adapting the trunkhose so they were more comfortable to wear. The pattern itself was a challenge, as it was on an enormous sheet of paper and did not come with seam allowances marked. As I did not have a tool to mark the lines I had to use a piece of chalk and ruler and work my way around all the pieces - including all the panes!

I learnt an enormous amount about the layers in this particular outfit that I had not known when I had made Elizabethan costumes in the past. Previously I had made a doublet with detachable sleeves and had not been aware that normally the sleeves are sewn in to the doublet body and that the sleeveless jerkin was worn over the top. Pinterest saved the day as I was able to view so many more historic portraits than before when I had questions.


I also learnt that people will notice hand sewn buttonholes - John couldn't believe how many comments he received when he wore the outfit a few weeks ago!

My costume blog is at http://aylwen.blogspot.com.au/ and I have been storing many of my production photos on my Facebook sewing page.

























Jan 27, 2016

Historic Fashion Workshops March-April 2016

For the first time Jane Austen Festival Australia is offering classes leading up to the festival so that you can put together your wardrobe in advance. Last night Aylwen started teaching a beginner sewing class so that people knew enough to join some of the historic fashion classes. It was a lot of fun - and so useful to start at the very beginning.

The workshops listed below are special add-on limited attendance workshops for Jane Austen Festival Australia ticket holders. Attendees need to have prior sewing knowledge and bring a sewing kit and working sewing machine with them as the intention is to finish the item by the end of the workshop. Please check workshop description for pre-requisites.


Make your own regency short stays

Teacher: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden, ACT
Date: 12-14 March 2016 
Venue: The Garden Cottage, Yarralumla

This is a full 3-day workshop using the new Laughing Moon short stays pattern. The corset is made of a sturdy cotton or linen and edged with white bias tape. It laces together in front and is stiffened in front with flexible boning. For fuller busts, gussets are added to give the proper lift needed for this period. Kits will include your pattern, mockup material, boning and instructions. Please bring: fabric to make your corset (advised below), a regency chemise, a recently serviced sewing machine, and the usual sewing equipment (pins, scissors, tape measure, sewing cotton etc)
  • For outer layer: 1m white silk, linen, or cotton.
  • For interlining: 1m white coutil, linen or cotton canvas or cotton duck.
  • For lining: 1m white linen or cotton.
The corset is made of a sturdy cotton or linen and edged with white bias tape. It laces together in front and is stiffened in front with flexible washable boning. For fuller busts, gussets are added to give the proper lift needed for this period. The short corset was used to display the various progressions of the Empire waist gowns, which were popular from 1790s to about the 1820s. This corset can also be covered in white cotton or linen if desired.

About your teacher: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden is a historical costume researcher, maker and teacher from Canberra, where she also organises historical dance and costume events, as well as being the Director of Jane Austen Festival Australia since 2008. In 2015 she taught historic costume workshops, did further research on historic clothing in the US and attended Costume College in LA as a scholarship recipient and looks forward to sharing her experience with you in 2016.  


Please note: only choose the "without pattern" if you already have a copy of the pattern and can bring it with you. If you attend the workshop without a pattern you will have to purchase a new pattern for an extra $35.  If you are attending from interstate and forget your fabric you can purchase from Addicted to Fabric (Phillip, ACT), Lincraft (DFO, Fyshwick or Woden, ACT) or Spotlight (Queanbeyan, NSW). Coutil is best purchased online, allowing plenty of time for shipping, whilst cotton duck can often (but not always) be found in the upholstery/curtain section of a fabric store. Workshop fees are non-refundable for any reason but are transferable up to two weeks before the workshop.



Regency Stays Workshop 12-14 March 2016

1816 Silk-covered Buckram Bonnet Workshop (two options)

Teacher: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden, ACT 14 April ~ 1-day Workshop: Silk Covered Bonnet $50 13-14 April ~ 1 1/2 -day Workshop: Silk Covered Bonnet, with shirred brim and/or outer cover $75 Venue: The Garden Cottage, Yarralumla
Kits containing buckram, taping, wire, mull, needles, hat box, bag and an instruction book will be provided. Please bring:
  • 1 metre of silk taffeta
  • 50cm of your brim fabric
  • any ribbons, feathers and flowers you wish to decorate with
  • recently purchased or serviced sewing machine
  • Sewing Kit with large sharp fabric scissors, seam ripper, seam gauge or tape measure, machine & hand needles,  craft scissors (for cutting buckram and paper), straight pins, clear ruler, pencils, eraser, paper (if you choose to copy the original pattern), coordinating thread to match your fashion fabric.
  • protective safety glasses
Screen Shot 2015-12-13 at 3.12.03 pm Screen Shot 2015-05-01 at 9.49.40 am    Velvet Bonnet made by Aylwen Gardiner-Garden   
Close-up of the inside of a shirred bonnet.
Close-up of the inside of a shirred bonnet.
About your teacher: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden is a historical costume researcher, maker and teacher from Canberra, where she also organises historical dance and costume events, as well as being the Director of Jane Austen Festival Australia since 2008. In 2015 she taught historic costume workshops, did further research on historic clothing in the US and attended Costume College in LA as a scholarship recipient and looks forward to sharing her experience with you in 2016.     Please note: If you are attending from interstate and forget your fabric you can purchase from Addicted to Fabric (Phillip, ACT), Lincraft (DFO, Fyshwick or Woden, ACT) or Spotlight (Queanbeyan, NSW). Workshop fees are non-refundable for any reason but are transferable up to two weeks before the workshop.



Regency Workshop (2 options)


Laughing Moon Bib Front Dress Workshop

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Teacher: Adrienne Unger, NSW Date: Thursday 14 April 2016 Venue: Hyatt Hotel, Commonwealth Ave, Yarralumla.
Pre-requisite: It’s a good idea to come prepared wearing whatever underpinnings you will be using for the dress. Best is shift and stays, (check with Aylwen for resources) or a good, push-up wide strap bra, and a petticoat! The Laughing Moon 126 Bib Front dress has taken the Regency dressing community by storm. It is well researched, with a full range of sizing. It has a range of sleeves, and can be made up to suit from work dresses, to promenade to ball gowns. The instructions are very clearly presented, and it is a dress that has some ‘forgiveness’ built in with its tie and pin fastenings. For those of you with dressmaking experience, it will be a straight forward sewing task, though there are some parts of the instructions that do skim over assumed knowledge. Together let us make you a gown in a day! There will be hand sewing only for visible hems, so you will need to bring your machine, and overlocker if you use one, and all you regular sewing kit, fabric and lining needs and the ‘notions’.  Three weeks before the workshop we will send you your pattern so that Adrienne can individually guide you through pattern tracing for your measurements before you get together. Lunch and refreshments are not provided with this workshop as there is a cafe at the Hyatt you can purchase from.
  IMG_0179  IMG_0181  IMG_0182 IMG_1451 (1)About your teacher: Adrienne Unger began sewing in her early teens, and has never stopped. With small children at home, she made wedding and bridesmaid dresses and sewed for her family. Later, dancing at Colonial balls inspired her to make her own period gowns, and, keen to learn more, led to her discovery of the TAFE Diploma of Theatre Costume -a four year vocational training course in costume design and construction - from which she graduated with Distinction. Adrienne now runs a small costume business from her home, mostly but not exclusively making Regency wear. Dancing and dressing the part continue to be her great pleasures.   Please note: only choose the "without pattern" if you already have a copy of the pattern and can bring it with you. If you attend the workshop without a pattern you will have to purchase a new pattern for an extra $35.  If you are attending from interstate and need some fabric you can purchase from Addicted to Fabric (Phillip, ACT), Lincraft (DFO, Fyshwick or Woden, ACT) or Spotlight (Queanbeyan, NSW).  Workshop fees are non-refundable for any reason but are transferable up to four weeks before the workshop.


Regency Dress Workshop $25 (pattern extra $35)
 

Dec 30, 2015

Online historical sewing courses

So.... working from home means I need to think long term about what I am (not) earning and how to pay the mortgage off and save for working holidays and professional sewing & millinery workshops. I've been thinking about online historical sewing courses - is anybody interested? How much would you be prepared to pay to have me virtually side-by-side with you making your next outfit? Would you like one-to-one or a forum for a group of registered learners to chat and share knowledge? And what would you like to learn from me? It could be anything from Renaissance onwards.... 

See some of my recent sewing projects at https://www.facebook.com/AylwenGarden, the latest is an Elizabethan Gentleman's outfit inspired by this image.


Oct 24, 2015

1790s Riding Habit

I've been sewing so much and neglecting my blog. Many items get put on my facebook page and never get written up here.
My most recent adventure is inspired by an embroidered jacket in the Kyoto collection. It is two separate garments and I've found a waistcoat at the V&A that I'll be copying for the under garment, minus the standup collar. I've been playing around with drafting pattern pieces and am now hand embroidering the collar - one bit at a time. Since I don't normally embroider it will probably take a while, so my goal is to have it wearable for the Jane Austen Festival next April.

Jacket in Kyoto Collection. This is two separate garments.
Waistcoat in the V&A

Back of waistcoat

Working out my design.

Chalked Design
Testing out embroidery possibilities.

My hand embroidery so far. I've just changed to a different frame to stop damage occurring under the ring. 

Playing around with patterns.


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